Love that we’re getting new voices joining our little circle :-)

Share some of the sexy or non-sexy naughty fun you’ve been up to!

  • j4k3@lemmy.world
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    8 months ago

    Those are some chonky motors in that controller IIRC. Ever gone full nerd and tried to find your resonate frequency(s)?

    I’ve debated 3D printing debauchery, but it’s quite the high risk project for protruding anatomy. Explaining a print failure mode in an ER is not on my bucket list.

    • demonologic@lemmynsfw.com
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      8 months ago

      Gotta say that idea hasn’t crossed my mind 🤣 The motors felt a little finicky and tilting the controller affected the vibration, which might not be good for any improvised resonant dildo enthusiasts with PS4 controllers. Mine’s old and kinda creaky, though.

      But yeah probably a good decision not to stick anything 3D printed anywhere you can’t get it out of if it suddenly decides to disassemble itself, don’t want to end up as a “guess what I did today” anecdote in a hospital break room.

      • j4k3@lemmy.world
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        8 months ago

        Of all the small vibrators I have in my junk motors drawers, old cell phones tend to pack a hell of a lot of power into a tiny package. They make the best cat toy projects. Pun intended. They tend to be higher frequency though. The weights on a controller are larger than average.

        I’d need faster AI text generation with a large model capable of acting as an agent before I’d design a print. I’m intimidated as hell about motors and mojo mixed. Not gonna lie, getting off with a vib seems like a much more approachable project I envy. It’s super cool to know there’s some chick out there playing with controllers and code to do this. If I wasn’t a gimp that is not worth the time, I would totally hit on you like mad. Happy gaming!

        • demonologic@lemmynsfw.com
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          8 months ago

          Like I told the other dude, I’m pretty convinced vibrators would work for you too, your nerve endings don’t care. You gotta go find out!

          Aww I’m sure you’re selling yourself short, but I’ll definitely take the compliment anyhow. Unfortunately (well for you in this case, not so much for me) I eat pussy, so you wouldn’t get very far

          • j4k3@lemmy.world
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            8 months ago

            Dinner for two, please; sharing taco. I got nothing to offer but bullshit and I know it. I couldn’t respect anyone that is willing to hitch themselves to a basket case that is slowly falling apart. Is what it is. Ya get what ya get and ya don’t pitch a fit.

            I have no idea if this is legitimate anatomy or not but if you ever feel like getting turned on by a ‘torture a man’ type story, this one seems to explain the details of exactly how the male hardware works quite vividly: https://www.literotica.com/s/paralegal-paralysis

            In my past life experiences, my main turn on is female gratification to a ridiculous extent. The clit and the cockhead are the same thing on a divergent fork of development. At least to me, there isn’t much of a direct connection between what happens at each end of the stick. So like shaky shaky doesn’t really do anything for me. I’ve had a partner get experimental with her toys on me too and ehh, I was just playing along. There was more than once as a kid when just something like clothing contact moving around was enough, so maybe a preteen age male might get off on it, but it didn’t do anything in my 20’s and can’t picture it being different now in my 30’s.

            I’ve had a crush on a couple of lesbians in the past, so I’m not surprised one bit there. Friends first, lovers second, and I don’t have stereotypically girly interests, so I like toms. Happens. Much love!

    • dazedandconfused@lemmynsfw.comOP
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      8 months ago

      3D printing sex toys is tricky because with FDM you can’t sanitize it properly. Three groves between the layers make it basically impossible. It’s the same reason why reverb though PLA is technically food safe, 3D printed mugs are not.

      • j4k3@lemmy.world
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        8 months ago

        I have my tricks for this kind of thing, but indeed sanitation is a primary design consideration if I ever were to go down this path. My fab skills are up to snuff but my sw skills need much more work.

        I don’t consider printing to be my only medium as a maker. I spent most of my 20’s painting cars, airbrushing graphics, and dabbling in composite prototyping over clay. Printing is just a convenience now because I’m physically limited.

        With the right techniques it is possible to polish ABS in particular. If polishing is used as the primary surface finish technique, and only a very brief wipe of a diluted acetone is used over this surface, it is not hard to make a long term water tight surface. My experience plays a major role in what I call “not hard” but suffice to say, the golden rules of automotive paint are: 1) Paint is 99.9% sanding and prep work and 0.01% actual painting. And 2) When you’ve spent forever sanding something and think you should be done, take a break, come back, and acknowledge you are only half way done. Repeat this until it’s perfect. The hardest part of learning to paint at automotive quality levels is defeating yourself and your inner expectations about time and work. So “not hard” is in this context.

        I’ve done many tests with various techniques when it comes to ABS. After polishing and light smoothing the surface is altered through the first 1.5-2 millimeters depth. The part designs for this finishing technique are quite challenging though. You need good mechanical access to all of the parts surfaces that need polishing, and when it comes to ABS, unless you have a temp controlled Voron 2.4, the layer thickness transitions in the print are quite critical to prevent layer separation even with an ideal sealed passive enclosure. Absolutely any bed movement is a problem on larger part designs

        I made a small printed sheetmetal stamping press that can handle ~100mm^2 sheets. I could use that for structure, or parts of an Erector set, which would be humorous. The best solution would likely be a set of printed molds for food safe silicone. I also have some 2 part plastic for casting, plaster, and a few meters of a 2k twill weave CF laying on the shelf begging for a project.

        I’m a mod of 3D Printing at the world BTW ;)